#631, Friday, December 22, 2000

ARTS + FEATURES

a window on Paris at garcon
by Tom Masters

Fresh lilies, low lighting and comfortable, candle-lit booths greeted us at Bistro Garcon, a French restaurant that opened earlier this year just off Ploshchad Vosstania. Not so much a theme restaurant as the real McCoy, much of Bistrot Garcon - including its head chef, Patrick Grandgien - comes direct from France, particularly the interior, which is made up of retro-chic advertising boards plundered from 1950s Paris.

The staff are painfully polite (something I just can't get used to in Russia) and the pozhaluista count was already off the scale by the time we had ordered. We sat drinking beers ($1.80 each) and devouring baskets of freshly baked baguette while watching our food being prepared through an open hatch - an experience that can be quite off-putting in a stolovaya, but one that is both reassuring and enjoyable in such an obviously professional establishment.

Indeed, anyone bored of dubious misnomers on Russian menus such as govyadina po-frantsuzsky will be glad to see a truly authentic range of French dishes, including steak tartar, fresh oysters, escargots, Foie gras, a range of French cheese and a large wine list.

As a starter, my companion opted for the soup au pistou ($4), while I found my curiosity insisted on salad canaille ($6) which was described on the menu as a "provocative combination" of sliced tomatoes, asparagus, onions, banana slices, rice, celery sticks and lettuce covered in fresh cream and lemon juice.

The soup au pistou - country vegetable soup served with spaghetti, basil leaves and olive oil paste - was brimming with flavor and went down extremely well with the French bread. I am not sure how provocative I found the salad canaille, but it was a strangely pleasant blend of sweet and savory and I chided myself for never having combined asparagus and banana before in my unadventurous life.

However, the focus of the meal was on the main courses, which were brought to us on large porcelain trays and which both seemed to combine at least two dishes. My "Pork Andalusia Style" ($12) was sumptuous, filet mignon sautéed and served with eggplants, cubes of tomato and ham, chipolatas and green peppers stuffed with rice - an overwhelming array of diverse tastes, both strong and subtle.

My companion ordered Chicken Supreme with "Musketeer Sauce" ($8) - sautéed chicken cooked in white wine with cayenne pepper and served with Tagliatelles. The musketeer sauce turned out to be thick Provencal mayonnaise, but there were no complaints; in fact my co-diner was moved to pronounce that it was the best meal she had eaten in her six months in Russia.

We rounded off the meal with espressos ($2 each), which were of equally high standard.

Paying the bill by Master Card, however, we were reminded that we were indeed still in Russia, as attempt after attempt to process the debit failed. Our unbelievably apologetic waiter encouraged us to read one of many back issues of Paris-Match, and we whiled away a good 20 minutes with Johnny Hallyday's love affairs, Grimaldi weddings and the Blair's latest child before the staff finally gave up and asked me to visit an ATM.

A brief excursion to the Moskovsky Vokzal later, and we left Bistrot Garcon's quiet warmth and friendly staff, and both agreed to come back (with cash) next year.

Bistrot Garson, 95 Nevsky Prospect. Open daily. Dinner for two with a modicum of alcohol, 1,100 rubles ($40). All major credit cards accepted (theoretically). Tel. 277-24-67.

copyright The St. Petersburg Times 2000

All Café  Site Web

 ноября 2001 года. 

Beaujolais nouveau в ресторане "BISTROT GARCON" большой, шумный веселый
праздник. Уже в первых числах ноября были распроданы все билеты. Патрик Гранжьен, шеф-повар ресторана, считает, что праздник молодого вина - праздник вкуса. Поэтому для счастливчиков, попавших на вечеринку и понимающих толк в настоящей французской кухне, было предложено, особое "божолезское" меню, включающее более 10 наименований "по особому случаю" специально приготовленных блюд: pâté de Campagne maison, pâté de canard, crème de foies de volaille, daube en gelée, saumon macéré a l'aneth, tourte Picarde, tarte au camembert… Специально приглашенная "звезда", которая просила не называть ее имени (именно поэтому мы и публикуем ее фотографии), в последний момент решила присоединиться к шумной вечеринке. Весь вечер негромко наигрывал аккордеон, и звучали блюзовые композиции… Авторам лучших этикеток Beaujolais nouveau 2001 присуждались очередные памятные бутылки этого пьяного вина, особые ценители могли попытаться по запаху отыскать требуемое вино в бокале… Словом, как всегда, очередная шумная вечеринка прошла с успехом, - удалась. 
Отведать Beaujolais nouveau в нашем ресторане вы сможете еще на протяжении, пожалуй, целого месяца - ведь именно столько во Франции и продолжается чествование молодого вина. Приятным дополнением станет выдержанное Божоле из нашего погреба.
Адрес ресторана "BISTROT GARCON" Невский пр. 95 (м. "Пл. Восстания")
Режим работы: с 9 утра до 1 часа ночи  Кухня: французская. 

Portail Internet / Internet Portal

Bistrot Garcon
Nevsky pr, 95,
Telephone +7 812 2772467                                                                     

Patrick Grandgien grandmother used to cook very well, and that’s probably why he became a cook. Nowadays he works in Saint Petersburg’s Garcon bistro at Nevsky Pr.95 and he is a glad to offer you the chance to sample some of his dishes.

Patrick recommends trying his Hungarian-style chicken, the way his grandmother used to cook it. Well-marinated in pepper and deep-fried, the chicken breasts are usually served with a cream sauce.

Two thin and tender pancakes under a sauce made of fresh orange juice and Grand Marnier liquor gives you the traditional French dessert “Crepe Suzette”. Patrick only prepares this dessert to order.

The most popular French dish is leek soup, and even the humblest of restaurants offer it.. At the Garcon Bistro this soup has a fine aroma and is tasty and thick, just the way it was served two hundred years ago in small taverns all over France.

At this restaurant the owners are trying to maintain the atmosphere of an old French bistro. The bar (dating from the end of 19th century) was brought here directly from France. The walls of the restaurant are decorated with Francois Pages’ pictures and visitors often purchase them, so the interior frequently changes.

Everything here is simple and democratic. Romantic French music can always be heard at Bistro Garcon and it’s great to dine here with your children. They will be offered kids’ chairs and toys to keep them busy. And, of course, every evening you can enjoy live accordion playing.